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I come to Bodega del Born for one of the best homemade vermouths. Here, it is dispensed from an enormous barrel. I usually pair it with a selection of cheeses and cured meats. And that's all you need for a heart-warming evening. The place is also famous for a local tradition. Here, the visitors write their wishes on colorful paper that, like a tapestry, adorns the bar’s walls. Once a year, leading to the San Joan celebration in June, the bar owners set the notes ablaze, hoping this ritual would bring the wishes to life.

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