Rio de Janeiro, Felt From the Inside

The area around the Museum of Tomorrow can get pretty hectic on weekday mornings, given its location right next to the city centre, so aim to arrive around 10 am. Take the subway to Candelária, then switch to the VLT light rail — a worthwhile leg of the journey in itself, with great views as it winds through the city centre. Alight at Praça Mauá station and the museum will be right in front of you on your right. The square is generally safe, but keep an eye on your belongings, as pickpockets do operate in the area.

Admission to the exhibitions at CCBB is free. If you decide to grab a coffee or a meal at Confeitaria Colombo, expect to spend around 100 BRL.

For the Escadaria Selarón, your best bet is to take an Uber to the Arcos da Lapa and walk from there — though I'd really recommend making a proper stroll of it through the city centre first. Pull up Google Maps, navigate your way to the Arcos da Lapa, and then follow the route on foot to the steps. At the bottom, you'll find a cluster of charming little bars serving Brazilian food at seriously good prices. Whichever one you duck into, expect a classic Brazilian spread: rice, beans, steak, and farofa, all remarkably affordable. Wash it down with a cold beer or a caipirinha, then take your time climbing the steps — pause on each one to properly take in the incredible tilework. At the top you'll find yourself in Santa Teresa; head back down and you're right in the heart of Lapa. There is no admission cost for the Escadaria, and a meal around 50BRL.

Grab an Uber to Mureta da Urca—just type the name into the app and you're set. Right in front of the seating area you'll find a small bar serving ice-cold beer, caipirinhas, and what might honestly be the best pastéis you've ever tasted. They offer both pastéis and empadas in a range of flavors; the shrimp and beef fillings are both outstanding. It's a wonderful spot to slow down, soak up the view, and linger over a drink. When you're ready to move on, take a wander through the Urca neighborhood itself—it's a quiet, largely residential area with a distinctive streetscape of 1970s architecture that's well worth seeing. Even so, the real draw is simply settling in, striking up a conversation, and letting the view do the rest. The fare for an Uber is 70BRL.

Copacabana Beach is a feast for the eyes, with sweeping views of both Sugarloaf Mountain and Corcovado framing the shoreline. It's a wonderful place for a leisurely stroll, and the promenade is lined with vendors selling everything from cangas to bikinis, so it's easy to pick up a souvenir or beach essential as you walk. Make sure you head all the way to the far end of the beach — that's where the views are at their finest. It's not the ideal spot for a swim, though, so I tend to simply soak up the scenery and then move on to my next stop.

Arpoador Rock is an easy walk from Copacabana — just follow the beach all the way to its far end. A short path, no more than three minutes, brings you to the top, where crowds gather each evening to watch the sun sink below the horizon. The applause that breaks out the moment it disappears is one of those spontaneous, only-in-Rio moments. Down below, the area stays lively at all hours: footvolley lessons, surfers reading the waves, joggers, capoeira sessions, and impromptu samba circles all compete for space. It is, hands down, one of the best sunset spots in the city.

Boteco Rainha is a classic street bar right in the heart of Leblon, and it's the ideal place to wind down at the end of the day. Locals and tourists alike spill out onto the pavement, so expect a lively, buzzing crowd. The torresmo — crispy pork belly — is absolutely not to be missed, the full meals are equally impressive, and the caipirinhas are excellent. If you're in the mood to keep exploring, there are several other small bars nearby worth popping into as well. All in all, it's a perfect spot to wrap up your day in style.